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Truffelized eggs at the Wintermarket

March 30, 2016
By Ari

After I bought all of Bob’s parsley, plus some eggs and onions, we stood there chatting, both of us sipping coffee. We were intrigued by Charlie’s supposed truffle trick. Neither one of us fully believed him, but we couldn’t afford not to try. It felt odd that Bob wasn’t shooing me along to make...

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Seaweed: Salvation and Salivation

March 30, 2016
By Ari
Seaweed: Salvation and Salivation

Twelve years ago, during an extended layover in Seoul, Korea, I discovered the ancestors of the packaged seaweed snacks that today’s hip kids have in their lunchboxes. In the duty-free shopping zone, I wandered into a seaweed shop. The store was stocked, floor to ceiling, with colorful boxes and shiny packets of seaweed, in...

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Hosed by Fructose

March 30, 2016
By Ari

A study published on the first day of 2016 suggests that sugar encourages the growth and spread of breast cancer tumors in rats, and fructose was singled out as having particularly carcinogenic activity. This is similar to recent evidence that pancreatic cancer cells can distinguish between fructose and glucose, and perform better when fed...

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A super food

March 30, 2016
By Ari
A super food

The idea that certain foods can make you smarter, faster, stronger or even younger has lead to the recent proliferation of “superfoods,” purported to do such things. This angle on health and well-being has opened big doors for marketers of food, writers of listicles, and those with the resources to pursue the superfoods lifestyle....

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Winter Greens, Reds and Purples

March 30, 2016
By Ari

Winter can be a challenging time for leaf lovers. The tender, bountiful garden foliage of summer is long gone, and seasonal winter options are generally a more fibrous lot, like cabbage and kale. Even the spinach is chewier. From a health perspective you could probably use the extra fiber, but nonetheless, serving wintergreens takes...

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A Time for Hunger

March 30, 2016
By Ari

The New Year seems to be a popular time to contemplate one’s relationship to calories. The goal used to be to simply reduce one’s caloric intake, but in the last decade our understanding of how the body deals with food and calories has grown considerably. So lets take a look at what it means...

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How I predicted the labeling of GM ingredients by Campbell’s

January 18, 2016
By Ari
How I predicted the labeling of GM ingredients by Campbell’s

Update: the walls are now tumbling down, with other big companies announcing similar changes, as Vermont’s label law looms. This recent column of mine argued that the approval of the AquAdvantage genetically modified fish, along with the FDA’s concurrent decision to not require that it be labeled at market, would essentially kill the movement...

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Noodle Theory

January 18, 2016
By Ari
Noodle Theory

  The consumer of food doesn’t need to wonder why noodles are so satisfying.  Like the question of why the sky is blue, the answer–something about light waves and stuff–just isn’t as satisfying as the unanswered question. But to the cook, understanding this question matters deeply. It has to do with texture more than...

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Climate on the Menu

January 18, 2016
By Ari

About a third of the earth’s greenhouse gas pollution can be linked to food, including its production, processing, packaging, transport, storage and preparation. As climate change becomes a mainstream concern, and people keep obsessing about food, it was inevitable that a new flavor of eater would emerge, the name of which made the New...

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Don’t Let The Pan Dry Out

January 18, 2016
By Ari
Don’t Let The Pan Dry Out

The lights and festivities of the so-called Holiday Season have always been a response to the rude levels of cold and darkness with which we must contend around the winter solstice. Given the coping mechanisms we come up with, this time of year could just as easily also be called drinking season, or gluttony...

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