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Midwife to a Hen

October 9, 2009
By Ari
Midwife to a Hen

Or is it husband to a hen? Let's just say our relationship deepened, thanks to a gift of fertilized eggs from our neighbor, Dick.

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How to never buy garlic

September 28, 2009
By Ari
How to never buy garlic

I haven’t bought garlic since 1996. That’s because I grow enough to eat a bulb of garlic every day, year ’round. I’m the first to admit most of my garden adventures are hobby-level attempts at self-sufficiency, but my garlic crop is for real. And since garlic is an overwintering crop, planted in fall and...

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Grilled Rattlesnake, anyone?

August 24, 2009
By Ari
Grilled Rattlesnake, anyone?

Got home late the other night, after a sake-fueled evening of restaurant reviewing and salsa dancing. With the headlights on the chicken yard, I went in to shut the door on the coop. I walked past, or maybe even stepped on, a rattlesnake that was hanging out, perhaps egg hunting. It sounded like a...

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Beet Surrender

August 9, 2009
By Ari
Beet Surrender

Alain Passard, founder and head chef at L’Arpege in Paris, pulled meat from his menu in 2001 because, he announced, he wanted more culinary challenges. “One day I woke up and asked myself, ‘What have I done with a leek, with a carrot?’ Nothing, or maybe just 10% of what can be done with...

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The weaning of humanity

August 9, 2009
By Ari
The weaning of humanity

Mammals are named after their mammary glands, which developed as a way to feed their young. But only humans continue drinking mammary secretions after infancy — and no other species drinks the milk of another. Today, dairy consumption is at the center of several interconnected social, economic, and health crises. Maybe it’s time to...

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A New Garlic Season

July 30, 2009
By Ari
A New Garlic Season

Almost everyone loves garlic, but few look forward to garlic season with anything like the anticipation reserved for vine-ripe tomatoes or fresh peaches. The words “new potatoes” on a restaurant menu are often spattered with drool, but new garlic, full of juice, fire and living flavor, rarely makes it into print. This is too...

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Squash Blossom Cookery

July 19, 2009
By Ari
Squash Blossom Cookery

Squash blossoms, breaded and deep-fried, are insanely delicious—which isn’t saying much. After all, you could deep-fry a breaded rat’s ass with tasty results. So it’s a shame that tempura-style is so often the focus when the conversation turns to squash blossoms. I think they’re better cooked in a way that highlights, rather than hides,...

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Slow Boat Cookin’

July 19, 2009
By Ari
Slow Boat Cookin’

If you were shipwrecked on a desert island with only one food, what would you choose? Think survival. Only unprocessed, raw ingredients are allowed in this exercise — no energy bars or hamburgers. Call it coincidence, call it cosmic, call it luck, but if you really were trapped on a desert island, one of...

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The Slippery Silk Road

July 17, 2009
By Ari
The Slippery Silk Road

As China goes organic, American farmers and consumers get thrown under the bus.

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Summer: Get it while you can

July 17, 2009
By Ari
Summer: Get it while you can

The locavore's litmus test comes down to what you eat in the summer.

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